The Complete Guide to Karuizawa: Meiji Era’s Resort Town
Karuizawa is a name that whispers sophistication and serenity, beckoning those who seek an escape from the bustling pace of urban life. Once a tranquil retreat for Tokyo's elite during the Meiji era, this charming resort town is renowned for its lush greenery and serene lakes set against the backdrop of the majestic Mount Asama. As you stroll through its tree-lined streets, the gentle rustle of leaves and a distant sound of flowing water create a soothing symphony that invites you to pause and breathe deeply. The town transforms into a ski haven in winter, attracting snow enthusiasts to its celebrated slopes, while summer brings hiking and cycling opportunities for adventurers to explore its trails.
Beyond outdoor pursuits, the allure of Karuizawa also lies in its rich history, woven seamlessly into the fabric of modern life. Here, traditional ryokan coexist with contemporary architecture, each telling a story of the past while embracing the present. Hot springs promise relaxation and rejuvenation, with Karuizawa acting as a gateway to Nagano's broader cultural heritage of traditional temples and vibrant festivals.
Are you visiting Karuizawa soon?
To save you time, we’ve curated a digital map on the best places to see, eat, shop and stay at.
Contents
Getting to and Around
By JR Train
The most efficient way to reach Karuizawa is via the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen (北陸新幹線), which connects Tokyo to Karuizawa Station (軽井沢駅) in less than 80 minutes. You’ll need a basic fare ticket plus a limited express ticket, totalling around ¥6,000 for a one-way fare that can be purchased online. The Hokuriku Shinkansen does not require a ticket for large-sized luggage, and the journey is fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass, perfect for travellers covering vast distances in a short period.
The train departs from major stations in Tokyo, including Tokyo Station and Ueno, which makes it convenient to position Karuizawa as the first leg of your trip in Tokyo. We flew into Narita airport and took the Keisei Skyliner straight to Ueno before transferring to the Hokuriku Shinkansen for Karuizawa. Be warned that Ueno Station (上野駅) is one of the busiest train hubs in Tokyo and can be tricky to navigate for first-timers, so leave more time between your transfers. The Hokuriku Shinkansen runs on platforms 19-20, located in the fourth basement level of the station.
The Hokuriku Shinkansen is only a 35-minute ride for those coming from Nagano.
By Local Train
The Shinano Railway provides a more budget-friendly option for daytime excursions. The Shinano Tetsudo line (しなの鉄道) runs every half hour between Karuizawa (軽井沢駅) and Naka-Karuizawa Station (中軽井沢), just five minutes away. JR passes are not accepted on local trains.
By Bus
Highway buses are another viable option for getting to Karuizawa, with multiple daily departures from Tokyo’s Ikebukuro Station to Karuizawa Station. The journey takes about three hours and costs under ¥3,000, depending on the day of travel. This option is particularly convenient for those travelling with larger luggage or preferring a direct route without train transfers.
In proximity to Karuizawa, the local bus network is operated by Kusakaru Kotsu (草軽 コツ) and Seibu (西武). Most bus routes pass through Karuizawa Station and Naka-Karuizawa Station, though buses are infrequent and may run only hourly.
By Taxi
Unless you’re driving in Karuizawa, you will almost certainly have to ride one at some point, as everything is spread out across town. You can easily find taxis outside the train stations or via the GO taxi app.
However, Japanese taxis are not cheap, so they are best used for short distances or when time is of the essence. For reference, a ride from Karuizawa station to Naka-Karuizawa station takes less than 10 minutes and costs roughly ¥2,500 on the meter.
By Bicycle
Karuizawa is a bicycle-friendly town (when it’s not snowing), and renting a bike is an enjoyable way to explore the scenic streets and nearby attractions at your own pace. Some hotels offer bicycle rentals for free, and there are numerous rental shops near Karuizawa Station and the Kyu-Karuizawa area with fees typically starting at ¥500 per hour or ¥1,500 for a full day.
By Car
For those who prefer the flexibility of driving, renting a car is a great option. The drive from Tokyo takes about 2.5 to 3 hours via the Kanetsu Expressway, allowing you to enjoy the beautiful countryside.
Having a car also makes visiting attractions outside the main town easier, such as Onioshidashi Park and Shiraito Falls. However, be mindful of expressway tolls, ranging from ¥4,000 to ¥5,000, and parking fees at some destinations.
What to See and Do
Stone Church (石の教会)
The Stone Church is one of the two churches on the Hoshino Resorts grounds, also known as the Uchimura Kanzō Memorial Stone Church. Designed by American architect Kendrick Bangs Kellogg and completed in 1988, his organic architecture reflects the principles of the non-church Movement, founded by Uchimura Kanzō (内村鑑三), which advocates for a spiritual connection that transcends physical buildings.
The church is constructed primarily of local stone and glass, symbolising male and female duality, and the structure blends seamlessly into the lush forest landscape. A series of stone arches and expansive glass panels create a striking visual effect from all angles, allowing natural light to flood the interior.
The interiors resemble the ruins of an ancient civilisation, with wooden pews filling the small sanctuary and tendrils of green spilling from the walls. The opening lines of the Lord’s Prayer are boldly inlaid on the wall and steps, drawing the eye naturally towards the centre of the space. My favourite detail is the floating wooden table on the side instead of the clunky lecterns often found in more traditional churches. Its simple curves and form are pleasing to the eye and add a minimalistic touch for wedding couples to sign their marriage certificates. Photography is prohibited inside the church, so savour the serenity and contemplation made for enjoyment in the moment.
Outside, a walled footpath leads to a plaque with a quote by Uchimura Kanzō and an opening on the hillside that offers a stunning view of the Japanese mountains.
“I for Japan;
Japan for the World;
The World for Christ;
And All for God.”
Kogen Church (高原教会)
Also on the grounds is Kogen Church, just a short walk across the hilltop from the Stone Church. Established in 1921, the church was initially conceived as a venue for liberal arts courses, reflecting the town's long-standing connection to Christian culture since the arrival of Anglican missionaries in 1886. Notable individuals, such as poets Hakushu Kitahara and Toson Shimazaki, have been associated with the church, facilitating open dialogue and creativity as a gathering place for cultural figures and intellectuals throughout history.
Its architectural style is primarily modernist, featuring a distinctive triangular roof that gives it a contemporary yet timeless appearance in harmony with the surrounding forest. The interior is simple yet elegant, adorned with minimalist wooden beams and large windows for abundant natural light, creating a warm, inviting atmosphere that encourages meditation. Photography is also prohibited inside the church, but feel free to wander to the adjacent building of a similar architectural style and peruse the happy memories that many a wedding couple has left behind.
Our friends’ wedding at Kogen Church was a beautiful occasion. After the ceremony, a small procession was held outside to honour the Japanese tradition of throwing rice at the couple and showering them with blessings and good omens.
HOSHINO Hot Spring Tombo-no-Yu (星野溫泉 トンボ の湯)
The famous Tombo-no-Yu is a natural hot spring popular since the Taisho era that does not circulate or add water, but changes it daily–a faucet for drinking water is also available as proof that the water is fresh.
At the entrance of the men’s and women’s respective baths hangs a Morira Hyakusen (森ら百選), a calligraphy and painting that conveys the richness of the scenery that is changed depending on the season. The onsen grounds are spacious, with an indoor hot spring, an outdoor hot spring, a cold bath, a sauna room, plus a massive shower area and changing room.
Tombo-no-Yu is a top-notch onsen because of its high-quality facilities and the way it seamlessly blends rejuvenation into the surrounding scenery. Its gorgeous outdoor view changes with the seasons: cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, red foliage in autumn, and snow-tipped branches in winter. In addition, seasonal hot springs like the yuzu hot spring will be held for the winter solstice, making you feel like a Japanese capybara. While my favourite hour for onsen is after dinner, I highly recommend visiting during the daytime to appreciate its premises fully.
Karuizawa Prince Hotel Snow Resort (軽井沢プリンスホテルスキー場
Above all else, Karuizawa is primarily known as a premier destination for winter sports enthusiasts and those seeking a luxurious getaway from Tokyo, so it’s no surprise there’s a ski resort in the centre of town right beside the JR station.
Prince Snow Resorts is a prominent chain of ski resorts in Japan known for its holistic experience, with restaurants and shops offering maximum après-ski relaxation. Its Karuizawa location has advanced snow-making facilities, making it one of the first ski resorts to open in Japan yearly, typically welcoming visitors from early November through late March. It features a range of trails with different difficulty levels and multiple lifts to ensure easy access to the well-maintained slopes for skiers and snowboarders. During the warmer months, the resort transforms into a hub for hiking, cycling, and golfing, allowing visitors to enjoy the area’s natural beauty year-round.
Spotting Flying Squirrels
Spotting flying squirrels in Karuizawa is a unique and enchanting experience, particularly for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts. More precisely known as the Japanese giant flying squirrel, the endemic species in Japan can be observed gliding through the forest at dusk, making it a highlight of wildlife-watching tours in the area. The ideal time to go flying squirrel spotting in Karuizawa is during the evening, particularly at sunset, when these nocturnal creatures become active, and the best months for sightings are from March through November, when the squirrels are most visible and active.
Picchio is an organisation focused on wildlife conservation, having established nesting boxes and monitoring systems to study and protect the flying squirrel population in the region. Their guided tours in Karuizawa boast an impressive sighting probability of over 90% and often include educational components, where participants learn about the squirrels' habits and habitats. The Picchio Visitor Centre is next to the pond (which transforms into an ice rink in winter) opposite HOSHINOYA, with buses and parking options for visitors.
Shiraito Waterfall (白糸の滝)
Unlike many waterfalls, Shiraito Waterfall does not have a river flowing into it. Instead, it is fed by groundwater that surfaces from volcanic strata above, which means its flow is less affected by rainfall. The waterfall, which translates to "waterfall of white threads," cascades down over 20 meters, aptly describing the fine thread-like streams of water that create a delicate curtain of water.
The waterfall is stunning in summer when the surrounding vegetation is lush and vibrant, but it is also a popular spot for viewing autumn foliage, especially in late October when the leaves change colour, providing a stunning backdrop to the waterfall. The area is also part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, making it a popular destination for nature lovers and hikers seeking scenic trails and breathtaking views.
Visitors can reach Shiraito Waterfall via a bus operated by Kusakaru Kotsu from Karuizawa Station, which takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops at Shiraito no Taki, from which the waterfall is a five-minute walk.
Hiroshi Senju Museum (千住博美術館)
Speaking of waterfalls, Hiroshi Senju is a renowned Japanese artist known for his large-scale waterfall paintings. His dedicated museum houses around 100 works, a significant collection showcasing his mastery in depicting waterfalls and the interplay of light and water.
The building was designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa and reflects Senju's philosophy of blending nature and culture. The unique structure adapts to the natural terrain, with two parallel surfaces that span an uneven slope of 3.5 meters, and is characterised by a free-flowing layout, allowing visitors to navigate seamlessly from the reception area to the exhibition halls, a cafeteria, and an auditorium. Courtyards bring natural light and vegetation inside, creating a serene environment for visitors.
The Hiroshi Senju Museum is five minutes from Naka-Karuizawa Station by car, with parking spots for cars and bicycles.
Old Karuizawa Ginza Street (旧軽井沢銀座商店街)
The area was initially developed during the Edo period as a lodging town along the Edo-Kyoto highway for travellers and merchants. After the British missionary Alexander Croft Shaw built a villa there in the Meiji period, the area became a vacation spot for wealthy families, leading to various shops and services catering to the affluent "villa clans”.
The architecture along Old Karuizawa Ginza reflects traditional Japanese styles, characterised by wooden structures, tiled roofs, and intricate details. Many buildings feature hand-carved cherry blossom designs, a hallmark of the region's craftsmanship. The street is home to notable historical buildings, including the Mampei Hotel and St. Paul's Catholic Church, which showcase the architectural styles of the Meiji period.
Old Karuizawa Ginza offers a variety of shops selling local crafts, souvenirs, and gourmet food. Visitors can enjoy regional delicacies at charming cafes and bakeries, making it an ideal spot for leisurely exploration.
Several buses run (infrequently) from Karuizawa Station to Kyu-Karuizawa (旧軽井沢), south of where the pedestrian street starts:
Kanko Bus to Hoshino Onsen Tombo no Yu by Seibu
Route 20 Kyu-Karuizawa Shuttle Bus North Exit Line by Kusakaru
Route 01 Express Kusakaru Line Kusatsu Onsen by Kusakuru
St. Paul's Catholic Church (聖パウロカトリック教会)
Established in 1935 by British priest Father L. Ward and designed by architect Antonin Raymond, the church brings to mind a less-minimalistic Kogen Church. The buildings share a similarly steep triangular roof and wooden panelling with a window down the middle, with St. Paul’s looking stouter and having a steeple of as-cast concrete. Inside, thick pillars are arranged in a scissor shape towards the ceiling.
Taliesin (タリアセン)
Taliesin is set against the backdrop of Shiozawa Lake (塩沢湖), with lush greenery and stunning views of the nearby mountains, including Mount Asama. The complex features a variety of buildings and museums that reflect traditional and modern architectural styles, and landscaped gardens and recreational facilities provide plenty of recreational opportunities for walking, picnicking, and enjoying the outdoors.
Since the area has many sights to see, it is advisable to allocate plenty of time for exploration. There are restaurants and a souvenir shop on the grounds, but regardless, it’s a good idea to bring along food and drinks if you plan to spend significant time at the lake.
The Shiozawako Line Express Bus, running from Platform 4 of Karuizawa Station, goes directly to Lake Shiozawa. For the Karuizawa Town Loop Bus, the nearest stop is Kazekoshi Park (風越公園), which is about 15 minutes away.
Peynet Museum (ペイネ美術館)
The Peynet Museum showcases the whimsical works of French artist Raymond Peynet, renowned for his charming illustrations of lovers and romantic themes. The museum features original artworks, prints, and themed exhibitions that celebrate Peynet's artistic legacy in the serene setting and beautifully landscaped gardens surrounding the museum.
Fukazawa Kokono no Hana Museum (深沢紅子野の花美術館)
This museum showcases the floral-inspired artworks of Japanese painter Kokono Fukazawa, emphasising the beauty of local flora. The collection features paintings and sketches that capture the essence of nature in Karuizawa and reflect her unique style and connection to the natural world. Surrounded by gardens that inspired her art, visitors can appreciate the harmony between her artistic vision and the scenic landscape.
Suikyuso (睡鳩荘)
Suikyuso is a historical villa designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, offering a glimpse into his architectural philosophy. The building features traditional Japanese elements combined with Western design, emphasising harmony with nature. Visitors can explore the beautifully preserved interiors and gardens, which reflect Wright's vision of integrating architecture with the landscape.
Hori Tausuo Sanso (堀辰雄山荘)
Hori Tausuo Sanso is the former residence of acclaimed Japanese novelist Tatsuji Hori, known for his literary contributions in the early 20th century. The villa is set in a picturesque location, showcasing traditional Japanese architecture and offers insights into Hori's literary life. The serene surroundings inspired much of his work, and visitors can explore his study and personal artefacts.
Takero Arishima Villa (浄月庵)
The villa was designed by the writer and architect Takero Arishima, exemplifying the integration of literature and architecture. The villa is nestled in nature, reflecting Arishima's aesthetic sensibilities and love for the environment. Visitors can explore the interior, which features elements that inspire creativity and the surrounding gardens that enhance the peaceful atmosphere.
Yayoko Nogami’s Study (野上弥生子書斎)
Yayoko Nogami’s Study is a preserved space dedicated to the influential writer Yayoko Nogami. The study, designed to inspire creativity, reflects her literary journey and personal style. In the study that embodies the tranquillity which fueled her imagination, visitors can explore her writing tools and manuscripts, gaining insight into her thoughts and processes.
The Literary Museum of Karuizawa (軽井沢高原文庫)
The Literary Museum of Karuizawa celebrates the region's rich literary heritage, featuring works from notable authors who found inspiration in Karuizawa. The museum houses a collection of manuscripts, letters, and personal items, a glimpse into these writers’ lives. Visitors can enjoy exhibitions highlighting the relationship between literature and the local landscape, fostering a deeper appreciation for the area's cultural significance.
Karuizawa New Art Museum (軽井沢ニューアートミュージアム)
The Karuizawa New Art Museum showcases Japanese and international contemporary art and actively collects works by Japanese avant-garde artists, including those associated with the Gutai Art Association, which has gained significant international recognition in recent years. Designed by architect Nishimori Rikuo, the modern building is made entirely of glass with many columns reminiscent of white larch.
Apart from having galleries on the upper floor, the ground floor houses a glass chapel designed by Kengo Kuma in the garden. The architect is known for his philosophy of erasing architecture so it harmonises with surroundings, emphasising the importance of topography and natural landscapes.
The museum is a short walk down the main street from the North Exit of Karuizawa Station, making it convenient for day-trip visitors.
Karuizawa Ando Museum (軽井沢安東美術館)
The Karuizawa Ando Museum is the first private art museum dedicated exclusively to Japanese painter Tsuguharu Foujita. The museum showcases approximately 200 of his works, including paintings that feature his signature motifs of little girls, cats, and the Virgin and Child. It also features the "Milky Underground" series, nudes on a milky white background, which gained popularity across Europe.
Kera-ike Ice Rink (ケラ池スケートリンク)
Opposite HOSHINOYA is a pond that transforms into an ice rink every year. In late autumn, an artificial area opens for visitors to skate in while admiring the blazing foliage of maple and larch trees. The entire pond freezes naturally when midwinter comes around, creating natural ice with a high transparency and smooth texture.
The adjacent Ikaru cafe sells hot drinks inspired by the forest. Customers can enjoy herbal teas and hand-drip coffees out by the ice while enjoying the sounds of the forest.
What to Eat
Kawakami-an (川上庵)
Since the Edo period, soba noodles have symbolised ordinary people’s culture. Kawakami-an specialises in coarsely ground Nihachi soba using carefully selected buckwheat flour and a custom-made stone mill.
Their hot duck soba is rich and aromatic with a smoky flavour balanced by Japanese leek, while the cold soba served with a walnut dipping sauce provides a refreshing taste. The menu also includes tempura and other traditional Japanese dishes, though my favourite side dish was the deep-fried mochi served with eggplants in a sweet, stewed sauce.
Kawakami-an has two locations in Karuizawa, the honten on Old Ginza Street and a newer location at Harunire Terrace, offering excellent views of the surrounding scenery. Lunch hour is generally busier with queuing required, but dinners are quieter and it’s much easier to get a seat. We loved Kawakamian so much that we walked to the Harunire Terrace location two nights in a row, and all our dishes were delectable.
Maruyama Coffee (丸山珈琲)
Maruyama Coffee was founded in 1991 in Karuizawa and has since focused on sourcing and roasting high-quality coffee beans worldwide. The company is known for its speciality coffee, utilising proprietary techniques to enhance flavour and quality, and also engages in direct trade with coffee producers to ensure high standards. In addition to coffee and soft, airy baked goods, Maruyama offers a variety of products, including sweets and food items made from coffee grounds and extracts.
Maruyama’s honten is 20 minutes west of Karuizawa Station on foot, so its newer branch in Harunire Terrace is much more convenient if you’re not driving. It also has several branches in Tokyo where you can get takeaway drinks and instant coffee.
Sawamura (沢村ロ)
Sawamura opened in Karuizawa in 2009, using seasonally available local ingredients. More than 30 wheat varieties and four types of homemade yeasts are carefully selected, with the kneaded dough slowly fermented at low temperatures for 18 hours to maximise the wheat’s deep, sweet taste and create a moist, chewy texture.
In addition to its bakery, Sawamura has a roastery focusing on single-origin beans to highlight their unique characteristics and a fruitery that produces jams and sweets with the natural sweetness of Nagano prefecture. The Sawamura roastery is a large standalone building near Old Ginza Street, whereas the bakery restaurant is at Harunire Terrace.
Mikado Coffee (ミカド珈琲)
Founded in 1948 in Tokyo, Mikado popularised coffee, which was then considered an expensive drink, for ordinary people by offering standing seats to reduce costs. It offers several lines of coffee beans, including a special Karuizawa selection of premium quality, but above all, Mikado values and protects the sourness of coffee.
The store on Old Ginza Street features a retro atmosphere reminiscent of a Showa period summer home, providing a cosy and nostalgic environment. Indoor seating is limited, so many go for takeout to avoid long lines. Its mocha dishes are known for their rich flavour and mild sweetness, and the mocha soft serve is especially popular during summertime.
Mikado also has branches in the Prince Shopping Plaza and the Tsuruya grocery store.
Izumiya Saku 和泉屋傳兵衛
Izumiya Saku was established in 1868, during the Meiji era, which marked a significant period of modernisation in Japan. This timing allowed the shop to incorporate both traditional and evolving culinary practices.
Over the years, Izumiya Saku has become a beloved establishment in Saku City, known for its seasonal sweets that reflect local culture and ingredients. The shop plays a vital role in preserving the art of wagashi-making, contributing to the region’s cultural identity. But while rooted in tradition, Izumiya Saku has also adapted to contemporary tastes, offering a variety of sweets that appeal to locals and visitors.
Snacks exclusive to Karuizawa include:
Korokoro kurumi: A cute, round sweet made with walnuts and fruits
Harunire no komichi: Sablé cookies made with hanamame (flower beans), a speciality of Shinshu
Pumice cookie: Light cookies that crumble in your mouth
The Harunire Terrace branch also serves freshly-grilled dango (one of my favourite Japanese snacks ever) in two flavours: Anyoji (安養寺) miso and Isobe dango. We had the latter, a savoury blend of soy sauce dipping wrapped in seaweed.
Karuizawa Brewery (軽井沢ブルワリー)
Founded in 2013, Karuizawa Brewery has become one of Japan's largest craft beer producers, offering a variety of craft beers, including seasonal and limited-edition brews, all made with high-quality ingredients sourced from the region.
The brewery is in Saku City, around half an hour from Karuizawa Station by car. Visitors can take guided brewery tours to learn about the brewery’s state-of-the-art equipment, ingredients and techniques. There’s also an open-air beer hall where you can sample freshly brewed beer amidst the mountains.
The fondness that the brewery’s chairman, Yasuharu Wada, had for Hiroshi Senju’s works can be seen in the entrance hall to the brewery, where one of his largest signature Waterfall paintings hangs, and the brewery’s line of premium beers has beautiful labels featuring the artist’s paintings.
You can also easily find Karuizawa Brewery’s beers at convenience stores and even DON DON DONKI:
Ouka Ranman Premium: A seasonal beer for spring with a refreshing clean taste that matches cherry blossoms in full bloom
Kaori no Craft Yuzu: A brew bursting with the citrusy aroma of yuzu
Karuizawa Ale ‘Excellent’: A golden ale with deep and delicate fruitiness
Wa-Bistro GOKAN
GOKAN is the sister restaurant of the hidden retreat Kutsukake Stay in Naka-Karuizawa. Known for its delicate kaiseki cuisine and elegant dining environment, it embraces fresh, seasonal ingredients in a fusion of traditional and modern Japanese. Their speciality dish is the Shinshu wagyu beef, served with seven seasonings and pickles.
Lugend (ルジェンド)
Conveniently located behind the Karuizawa Station, Lugend is another restaurant under the Kutsukake Stay group, but this time, specialising in modern French cuisine. The menu changes regularly to reflect seasonal ingredients like Shinshu seafood and homegrown herbs and vegetables, ensuring fresh and innovative dishes complemented by a curated selection of wines.
Only set courses are served; booking in advance is required.
Komoro Distillery (小諸蒸留所)
Located in the foothills of Mount Asama, Komoro Distillery is an exciting new addition to Japan's whiskey scene. Established by Karuizawa Distillers, the distillery aims to honour the legacy of the now-closed Karuizawa Distillery, renowned for its exceptional whiskey.
The distillery is situated at an elevation of 910 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest distilleries in Japan. It is built close to a pure water source known as ‘Nomatori,’ essential for whiskey production. The facility is designed to blend modern technology with traditional whiskey-making techniques, overseen by award-winning Master Blender Ian Chang, who has a prestigious background from Kavalan Distillery in Taiwan.
Komoro Distillery focuses on creating high-quality Japanese whiskey that rivals the best in the world. The founders, Koji Shimaoka and Ian Chang, are committed to environmentally-friendly practices and aim to provide a unique whiskey experience that includes tours and educational programs through an on-site Whisky Academy. The distillery's production process uses mizunara oak and various cask types for ageing, contributing to their whiskeys’ distinct flavour profiles.
Yo-Ho Brewing (ヤッホーブルーイング)
Founded in 1996, Yo-Ho benefits from the pure waters of the Japanese Alps, essential for brewing quality beer. It has gained a reputation for producing high-quality craft beers with unique flavours, and popular offerings include:
Yona Yona Ale: An American Pale Ale known for its citrus flavour and balanced bitterness, making it a favourite among beer enthusiasts.
Aooni: A Japanese IPA that features strong bitterness and a refreshing aroma, appealing to those who enjoy hoppy beers.
Suiyoubi no Neko: A Belgian White Ale brewed with orange peels and coriander, designed to brighten up midweek days.
Sorry Umami IPA: A unique beer incorporating umami flavours from bonito flakes, creating a refreshing and fruity profile without tasting fishy.
Visitors to Yo-Ho Brewing can enjoy fresh beer directly from the source, along with original bar snacks at their beer restaurant, Yona Yona Beer Works (also available in Tokyo).
Where to Shop
Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza
Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza was developed as part of the Prince Hotel Group's efforts to enhance the area as a year-round tourist destination, and I’d say they have been very successful. Ask anyone from Hong Kong, and they’ll tell you no trip to Karuizawa is complete without checking out the outlet mall. The charm of it is that because the outlet is entirely outdoors, its scenery evolves with the seasons, and shopping in winter feels like wandering through a white wonderland.
The shopping plaza is one of the largest outlet malls in Japan, featuring over 240 stores and various dining options spread out over six wings. It’s almost impossible, not to mention tiring, to squeeze everything into a single day of shopping, so I recommend ending every day of sightseeing with a few hours of shopping before dinner. The shopping plaza has an impressive range of designer labels, with Burberry and Bottega Veneta stocking a reasonably practical range at good discounts.
In addition, the plaza is just beside the south exit of Karuizawa Station, which makes it a compelling reason to visit from Tokyo. There is ample parking on the grounds, and some hotels offer shuttle services.
Harunire Terrace
Hanurire Terrace is Hoshino Resorts’ answer to a dining and shopping hub away from the main Karuizawa town. The outdoor area by the riverside forest has a cluster of eateries and boutiques, including branches of the famous soba place Kawakami-an and roastery Sawamura that you can enjoy without hitting up the old Karuizawa Ginza Street.
When we visited, it was the annual “Hello Yellow” event, with the entire Hoshino Resort welcoming the arrival of spring with a bright pop of colour and themed food and beverages, a nod to the mimosa flowers. It was a shame that it was so cold that I couldn’t stand being outdoors for long, as it was an idyllic view with plenty of seating on the terraces by the bubbling brook.
Karuizawa Bookstore (軽井沢書店)
On our way from Karuizawa Station to Naka-Karuizawa Station, we passed by the freestanding Karuizawa Bookstore with a stylish glass facade that looked bright and inviting for booklovers. It turns out it’s run by T-Site, a series of unique commercial complexes in Japan that combine bookstores, cafes, and lifestyle shops in beautiful architecture, the most notable being Daikanyama T-SITE in Tokyo.
Karuizawa Bookstore has a second location in Naka-Karuizawa near the Hiroshi Senju Museum and a super cute mobile bookstore, Karumaru, that visits remote areas without bookstores or events.
Where to Stay
BEB5 Karuizawa (BEB5軽井沢)
BEB5 may be the lowest tier of the three hotels on the Hoshino Resorts complex, but it’s more than adequate to guarantee an enjoyable stay, especially for groups of friends. Although Japanese hotels are notorious for being compact, BEB5’s signature room type is a cosy lofted space that cleverly maximises square footage while retaining a playful atmosphere. It’s also the easiest of the three to get to (no trekking up slopes required) with a convenience store just around the corner, and it offers access to Tombo-no-Yu at a discounted rate.
Hotel Bleston Court (ホテルブレストンコート)
A tier up from BEB5, Bleston Court is a luxurious highland resort in Karuizawa celebrated for its exquisite dining and serene environment. With over 50 years of history, it offers a selection of elegantly designed accommodations nestled in a tranquil forest setting, including Designer’s Cottages with marble floors and airy white interiors, Terrace Villas in highland style for a private getaway, and the cosy log-house Standard Cottages.
The hotel's main dining venue, Bleston Court Yukawatan, is renowned for its gourmet cuisine that emphasises local ingredients from Nagano. Guests can also enjoy complimentary access to Tombo-no-Yu, accessible by hotel shuttle.
HOSHINOYA Karuizawa (星のや軽井沢)
The most luxurious of the Hoshino brands, HOSHINOYA is a ryokan-style resort that seamlessly blends traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern comforts. Set amidst lush forests, it offers spacious pavilions overlooking the serene river and bird sanctuary, emphasising wellness and relaxation. Guests can indulge in kaiseki dining and enjoy a tranquil ambience that encourages a deep connection with nature.
HOSHINOYA offers a free shuttle bus service to and from Karuizawa Station upon guests’ arrival and departure, with reservations required in advance.
Mampei Hotel (万平ホテル)
Karuizawa’s most historic hotel has welcomed guests since 1894, offering a charming blend of Japanese and Western elements that makes it feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Its beautifully appointed rooms are in three distinct wings, including the Alps Wing, a recently renovated tangible cultural property, and the Atago Wing that draws water directly from the hotel’s natural hot spring.
Mampei may look and sound vintage, but it is incredibly up-to-date in its branding and offers a gorgeous range of merchandise from coffee and snacks to stationery you will want to bring home. Its location in the heart of Karuizawa near the Old Ginza Street makes it a popular choice for visitors seeking a classic Karuizawa experience.
Hotel Indigo Karuizawa (ホテルインディゴ軽井沢)
Nestled against the backdrop of Mount Asama, Hotel Indigo by IHG provides a getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life in one of Karuizawa’s most stylish properties. Its design incorporates elements of the surrounding landscape, from the wooden pavilion-style entrance to its richly textured interiors, complemented by serene views of the river and gardens. Guests can enjoy a unique culinary experience at the hotel's signature restaurant, Kagaribi, which focuses on dishes prepared over an open fire.
It’s too far to walk to town from Hotel Indigo, but shuttle services run to Karuizawa Station and only take five minutes.
Karuizawa Marriott Hotel (軽井沢マリオットホテル)
A bit further west from Naka-Karuizawa Station is the Marriott Hotel, which boasts stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The property offers traditional Japanese rooms with tatami mats and dog-friendly cottages, but for the ultimate luxury, spring for the rooms with a private open-air bath.
Marriott has golf courses nearby and runs a shuttle service to Karuizawa Station, which is less than fifteen minutes away.
Karuizawa Prince Hotel East (軽井沢プリンスホテル イースト)
It’s dizzying how many properties the expansive Prince Hotel chain has in Karuizawa alone.
Karuizawa Prince Hotel East is the closest of the complex to Karuizawa Station and is right next to the snow resort, making it a perfect base if you intend to do some hardcore skiing during winter. The main building only offers twin rooms, while cottages dotted around the grounds house up to four guests and pets.
The Prince Villa Karuizawa (ザ・プリンス ヴィラ軽井沢)
Next to the Karuizawa Prince Hotel East is the Prince Villa Karuizawa, which offers a more private and exclusive experience within the Prince Hotel group with a minimum two-night stay. Twenty villas of different sizes house up to eight guests each, ideal for families or groups of friends seeking a peaceful getaway amidst nature.
Villa guests can enjoy the best of both worlds, with free access to the Forest hot spring (East hotel) and Momiji hot spring (West hotel). Bicycle rentals are also available to appreciate the forested areas fully, and guests can enjoy a light breakfast and snacks at the club lounge throughout the day.
Karuizawa Prince Hotel West (軽井沢プリンスホテル ウエスト)
Deeper into the Prince Hotel complex is Karuizawa Prince Hotel West, which connects to the shopping plaza via its southmost parking lot. The West hotel is the core of the complex, with multifunctional halls and meeting rooms that complement its eastern counterpart.
The twin rooms with a terrace are much nicer than the East hotel, and guests can also opt for suite rooms with a retro Japanese charm or private cottages that house up to eight guests. The FARM (fancy FamilyMart) next to the lobby also offers local souvenirs and fruits on top of the standard convenience store fare.
The Prince Karuizawa (ザ・プリンス 軽井沢)
On the other end of the complex lies The Prince Karuizawa, a resort-like accommodation beyond the golf course. Although they are more old-fashioned, guest rooms all offer views of Mount Asama, with the French dining room, Beaux Sejours, boasting the best view from its floor-to-ceiling windows. Like at the Villa, bicycle rentals are available, and access to both hot springs is free.
A free shuttle bus runs to Karuizawa Station and takes fifteen minutes. But even so, the location is hardly convenient compared to the other hotels on the same complex, so unless you are really into golf or are looking for a new retreat experience at a different Prince Hotel, the other properties make more sense.
Karuizawa Asama Prince Hotel (軽井沢 浅間プリンスホテル)
The furthest of all the Prince hotels at Karuizawa, Karuizawa Asama Prince is a family-friendly resort that offers plenty of outdoor activities. The decor is rather old-fashioned, but the room balconies offer unparalleled, sweeping views of Mount Asama. It’s also adjacent to a beautiful golf course built on the hillside of Usui Toge, and has a hot spring on the grounds, Breeze in Plateau, accessible by monorail (so extra).
A free shuttle bus runs to Karuizawa Station and takes twenty minutes.
Kutsukake Stay (くつかけステイ)
Kutsukake Stay is a cosy Japanese inn in Naka-Karuizawa near the station, its name referencing the tradition where travellers offered their sandals or horseshoes to the gods for a safe journey. The property was renovated from a Kominka (old folk house), preserving a unique charm in its traditional architecture. Rooms are decidedly less luxurious than large hotels (smaller rooms do not have a standalone shower, and guests may utilise the public baths instead), but the common areas are wonderfully inviting, and the Japanese garden is stunning in all seasons.
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